Building your own facade... step by step.

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Tyrone Blue

DMX professional & Retired Police Officer
Oct 31, 2006
250
266
Central - Northern MN
In addition to my video on Youtube on the subject, I am going to include step by step instructions on how to build your own. Over the years, I have refined and made the original better (I’ve sold about 75 of them).

So, here is the procedure for building your own:

Step 1 – Select some clear boards that are 1X6 with no knots or twists, that are 8 feet long.

Step 2 – Crosscut the boards to 51 inches and 27 inches (this will allow you to insert standard 2X4 plexi ceiling sheets for light fixtures later on).

Step 3 – Rip the boards to obtain 2½ rails (you will get two from each board).

Step 4 - Round the ends first with a table router. NOTE: Rounding the end grain first will allow you to clean up any chipping caused by the router, when you round the edges on the long sides).

Step 5 - Insert the ends into a jig (or band saw or dato blade) to cut a lap joint on the ends of each rail. Exactness is critical here!

Step 6 – Raise the blade on your radial arm saw to cut the lap joints out of the board.

Step 7 – Carefully, plunge cut the rails on the thin sides, to put the plexi panel grooves into each rail. The reason I plunge cut these is so that the gap will not show on the end of each rail (you may not care, but I didn’t like the look of the earlier model).

Step 8 – Drill a hole exactly in the center of each lap joint.

Step 9 – Prime and paint… I use spray paint on mine.

Step 10 – Use “T” nuts, washers and short bolts to assemble the rails. Loosely bolt 3 rails, then insert the plexi panel, then attach the 4th rail and tighten.

Step 11 – Attach your hinges, and set up your façade…
 

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Oh, and I forgot to mention... I put a card slot in the top of one of the rails for business cards or brochures.
 

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My other Business is in the Art Industry. You can build frames easier with these pre cut kits/lengths. All the sources listed are from retail stores since y'all won't be able to purchase at Wholesale Dealer Prices.

For Frame: http://www.amazon.com/Masterpiece-S...er-Strips/dp/B000AN07KK/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_1_1
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This will hold it together along with Special Framers Glue. "V" Nails: http://www.amazon.com/Logan-NAIL-HARD-Framing-Tool-Hardware/dp/B002E511H0

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Read these threads for more info>http://www.ourdjtalk.com/threads/started-building-my-facade-today.40609/#post-463331

http://www.ourdjtalk.com/threads/steve-cies-lighted-facade.28788/#post-317989

http://www.dickblick.com/products/b...p=google&wmcid=products&wmckw=07211-1072-7643
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Yeah, I have a couple million pictures and as many videos on YouTube. ahoustondj I built some of these joints in my shop, but they weren't as strong, and took too long to make.
 

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Yeah, I have a couple million pictures and as many videos on YouTube. ahoustondj I built some of these joints in my shop, but they weren't as strong, and took too long to make.
The ones we use in the Custom Picture Framing Industry fit tight even before Gluing or V Nailing. From what I can see you are using a screw/bolt to hold it together. It can still swivel and wobble. Use V Nails and Framer's Glue instead. You can buy a V nailer that will solve all those problems.
 
At least 2 joints would need to be screwed/bolted together in order to change out the panels.
 
This panel is held together with 4 bolts and "T" nuts. Here's the video, with me sitting on two panels... it's PLENTY sturdy (and there are NO "problems")!:

 
At least 2 joints would need to be screwed/bolted together in order to change out the panels.
There are other options but of course this time I have the upper hand because I have been in the Art & Framing Business since 1985. I still am. I can make a permanent frame and be able to change out panels at will. A framer does not have to interefere with the frame itself when changing out mats.
 
There are other options but of course this time I have the upper hand because I have been in the Art & Framing Business since 1985. I still am. I can make a permanent frame and be able to change out panels at will. A framer does not have to interefere with the frame itself when changing out mats.
Given the design criteria of having a slot cut into the frame to hold the plastic panels, not sure how you could do that permanently with glue and nails. If you were to offer a different design, then by all means .. just not this one.
 
Given the design criteria of having a slot cut into the frame to hold the plastic panels, not sure how you could do that permanently with glue and nails. If you were to offer a different design, then by all means .. just not this one.
Whoever said I was going to glue or nail the panels?
 
Whoever said I was going to glue or nail the panels?
You said you would glue the frame up .. If you glue/nail the frame together, you can't easily replace the panels. You would need to secure them in a different manner than specified (tacked/screwed strip or clips of some kind) .. then it would be a different design. With Tyrone's version, a couple of screws out and new panel in .. plastic tends to crack easily, so it would make sense to be able to replace it quickly. With a picture frame, one doesn't normally capture the canvas in a groove on the frame ... normally it is held in with nails or such .. different design.
 
You said you would glue the frame up .. If you glue/nail the frame together, you can't easily replace the panels. You would need to secure them in a different manner than specified (tacked/screwed strip or clips of some kind) .. then it would be a different design. With Tyrone's version, a couple of screws out and new panel in .. plastic tends to crack easily, so it would make sense to be able to replace it quickly. With a picture frame, one doesn't normally capture the canvas in a groove on the frame ... normally it is held in with nails or such .. different design.
Steve you are out of your element on this one. In the frame moulding, there is what is called a Rabbet, this holds the glass/panel in place after the frame is built. The Glass or panel can be "seated" in place several ways. You can use turn buttons. You can use push points. You can use offset clips etc.
You can also use metal moulding which comes with a channel for the Glass/Panel and a spring clip on each side will hold it in place. With the metal moulding you can get all kinds of widths, designs and finishes all anodized so you don't have to paint anything. It is still a frame to hold a panel. The Metal Frame requires no gluing and all that is needed to put it together is one screwdriver .
 
I forgot to add that there are two other options one can also use "Snap Frames" or "Slide In Frames" You can change the panels out in less than a minute per panel. No Tools needed. All four sides snap open or just slide in.

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Steve you are out of your element on this one. In the frame moulding, there is what is called a Rabbet, this holds the glass/panel in place after the frame is built. The Glass or panel can be "seated" in place several ways. You can use turn buttons. You can use push points. You can use offset clips etc.
You can also use metal moulding which comes with a channel for the Glass/Panel and a spring clip on each side will hold it in place. With the metal moulding you can get all kinds of widths, designs and finishes all anodized so you don't have to paint anything. It is still a frame to hold a panel. The Metal Frame requires no gluing and all that is needed to put it together is one screwdriver .


Canute .. not out of my element .. I'm not a professional like you, but have framed before.

I don't disagree that you can do it that way .. or that that way might have advantages ...

I just said, based on Tyrone's design, it NEEDS to be screwed/bolted together to be able to change the plastic .. otherwise, it needs to be a different design ...Chillax my man.
 
this thread needs to go in a Blog :)