Cargo Trailer to duex

[DJStevieRay]

So about a month ago I asked for advice between a box truck, trailer, and a big cargo van. Well I made my decision. What do you think? I know some guys will say too expensive but I had it custom built to my specifications.

Trailer Details ($7282.20 with tax, tags, registration and inspection)
Custom Built Integrity Trailer (Built in Carbondale near me, by the guy who used to design for Wells Cargo)
True-Line 7 x 14-T Enclosed Trailer - V Front, Flat Roof
GVWR: 7700 LBS
28" V Front
2 5/16 Stamped Coupler
2000 LB Top Crank Jack with foot pad
Full Height Crossmembers on 24" center
3 Piece A Frame
1/4" Safety Chains with 1/4" Clevis Hook
2 x 4 Rectangular Steel Tube Mainrails
3500 LB Torsion Axle
5 on 4.5 bolt pattern, 10 up angle, super lube hubs,
10" Adjusting Brakes
Battery for Breakaway System
ST205/75R15 LRC Radial Tire on 15" Silver Spoke Wheel
6'6" Interior Height
78 3/4 Vertical Posts on 16" Center
Roof Bows on 20" Center
36 x 74 Side Door w/ Full Height Cam Lock
Max Size Double Rear Doors with Aluminum Hinges
Entire Trailer Sprayed With Rust Preventing Paint
3/4 Plywood Floor - undercoated and top coated
3/8 Plywood Sidewall Liner
12V Dome Light with Integral Switch - upgrade to LED
12V LED Dome Light with Integral Switch - total 3 in ceiling
12V Switch - for use with up dome lights - c/s door
1 Piece Aluminum Roof
24" Star Brite Stoneguard
LED Clearance Lights
LED Tail Lights
Smooth Aluminum Fenderettes
Ext. Aluminum Installed with Rust Resistant Fasteners
Color: White
Sidewall Insulation > R5
1/4 Lauan Installed to Contour of Roof Bows
Ceiling Insulation - Contoured Ceiling > R5
15 Amp - 120 Volt Extension Cord Hook Up Power Supply
15 Amp Duplex Receptacle - Interior - location tbd
5 Bolt Spare Tire Carrier Exterior Mounted C/S V Wall
ST205/75R15 LRC Radial Spare Tire
E Track Welded to Side Wall Vertical Posts - c/s and r/s walls
Back Up LED Lights Installed in Sidewall as Close to Rear as P
Heavy Duty Security Hasp with Padlock

 

[steve149]

Looks sweet. For not a whole lot over the cost of a stock trailer, you got what you wanted.

 

[IceBurghDJ]

I like the mounting for the spare.
You should paint the walls/ceiling white - makes a big difference in being able to see inside especially at night.

that is one serious door lock! and 36" door - good idea.

Insulation - nice.

No roof or other vents?

why not a ramp in back?

 

[steve149]

Do the brakes work with the truck's .. or are they for breakaway only?

Only things I might have added were a solar powered exhaust fan and maybe some D-rings on the floor for tie-downs.

 

[IceBurghDJ]

mine came with drings and I added 2 rails of e track..and put shelving and a counter in the vnose.

recenltly moved some etrack forward a bit. It's never where I want it to be...LOL. too high, too low...

I've used a couple of the d rings twice - when I bouht my zero turn mower and before i moved some e track to hold my dolly loaded with gear. Hence my preference for a ramp - I love it all on the dolly.

it's why i'm leaning toward a dedicated trailer over a van...the ramp!

 

[DJKLEEN]

Congrats bro! I know you will enjoy it. good choice with the 7X14. you also gotta look at the extra 1 foot wide and most importantly the size when it comes to resale! That is a great size to hold its value! Good luck with your new asset! Tamdem axle is the way to go,,,, i left a table leaning up against the inside wall of my trailer this weekend and went 20 miles! When I got home the table was still leaning against the wall!!!!!

You have a nice looking RIG!

 

[redhotdj]

I've had a trailer since 1994 the one thing to watch for is steel frame aluminum side walls they don't like each other

 

[DJStevieRay]

Looks sweet. For not a whole lot over the cost of a stock trailer, you got what you wanted.

Thanks Steve

I like the mounting for the spare.
You should paint the walls/ceiling white - makes a big difference in being able to see inside especially at night.

Thanks for the tip

that is one serious door lock! and 36" door - good idea.

Yes he (the owner of Integrity Trailers) custom designed that latch for me, I wanted it as secure as possible. He submitted for a patent on it.

Insulation - nice.

Thanks, I try to take as good of care as I can of my gear.

No roof or other vents?

No vents, fully insulated to keep het/cold out as much as possible, also to keep moisture down.

why not a ramp in back?

I thought about it, and took it off last minute, we have a few venues with loading docks, and the doors would be easier there. All my gear except for the TV's is bagged, and put on rock & Rollers anyway, so if I have to lift it to set it on the rock & Roller, then the ramp doesn't save all that much work, plus in tighter spaces, that extra 6 ft. may matter.

Do the brakes work with the truck's .. or are they for breakaway only?

Work with the trucks, through 7 pin connection

Only things I might have added were a solar powered exhaust fan and maybe some D-rings on the floor for tie-downs.

I wanted it sealed tight, hence no vents. I am building custom shelves for all my gear with locking tie down bars.

mine came with drings and I added 2 rails of e track..and put shelving and a counter in the vnose. recenltly moved some etrack forward a bit. It's never where I want it to be...LOL. too high, too low...I've used a couple of the d rings twice - when I bouht my zero turn mower and before i moved some e track to hold my dolly loaded with gear.

My e-track is welded to the studs, so no moving it now. Most equipment is in bags, or small cases that will be put on shelving. The only thing to strap is the TV case, and the Photo Booth case.

Hence my preference for a ramp - I love it all on the dolly.
it's why i'm leaning toward a dedicated trailer over a van...the ramp!

Read above why no ramp for me.

I've had a trailer since 1994 the one thing to watch for is steel frame aluminum side walls they don't like each other

Please explain further. I'm not completely following.

 

[ittigger]

I imagine you have a Brake Controller - if not, the trailer brakes will not work with your truck on their own. Also, be careful with how much stuff you load. I think the truck will max out before the trailer will.

 

[redhotdj]

I've had a trailer since 1994 the one thing to watch for is steel frame aluminum side walls they don't like each other

At the bottom where the aluminum sides end is the steel frame over a period of time the steel frame will eat away at the aluminum causing holes. One thing that might help is get it undercoated

 

[DJStevieRay]

I imagine you have a Brake Controller - if not, the trailer brakes will not work with your truck on their own.

Yes Brake controller installed.

Also, be careful with how much stuff you load. I think the truck will max out before the trailer will.

You are correct...Trailer 7000 lbs, Truck Tow capacity is 5650lbs

At the bottom where the aluminum sides end is the steel frame over a period of time the steel frame will eat away at the aluminum causing holes. One thing that might help is get it undercoated

I know the floor is undercoated, and the steel frame is completely coated with rust proofing, I don't know if that will help, maybe I can take some closeups for you. Tell me where to, and I'll post pics.

 

[ittigger]

You are correct...Trailer 7000 lbs, Truck Tow capacity is 5650lbs

Pay special attn to GVWR then - tow capacity usually accounts for trailer + a lightweight driver and not much else.

 

[DJStevieRay]

Pay special attn to GVWR then - tow capacity usually accounts for trailer + a lightweight driver and not much else.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/vehic...gine%5E5-Speed+Automatic+545RFE+Transmission# = 6010 lbs

Payload http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/vehic...gine%5E5-Speed+Automatic+545RFE+Transmission# = 1312 lbs

Curb Weight http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/vehic...gine%5E5-Speed+Automatic+545RFE+Transmission# = 4698 lbs

Curb Weight Front/Rear = 2751 lbs/2751 lbs

GAWR Front/Rear http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/vehic...gine%5E5-Speed+Automatic+545RFE+Transmission# = 3600 lbs/3600 lbs

Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/vehic...gine%5E5-Speed+Automatic+545RFE+Transmission# = 10500 lbs

 

[ittigger]

This means you can safely tow 5,802 lbs - not counting anything else (driver, riders, coolers, etc).

GCWR-CW = what you can load in the truck & trailer. The majority of the weight should show up in the trailer. A small percentage should show up in the truck (people).

10,500 (GCWR)-4,698 (Truck CW)=5,802-2200 (Trailer CW) = 3,602

Edit: GCWR - This is the maximum safe weight of your combined vehicle and trailer. This weight includes all people, luggage, and other material. If your combined towing setup exceeds this weight, your vehicle's engine, transmission, brakes, and so on will be stressed beyond their design limits.

 

[DJStevieRay]

Good thing the trailer weights around 2200lbs, I can still gain a few hundred myself before making my truck unsafe lol

 

[ittigger]

Technically, that leaves you 3,602 lbs to play with (5,802-2,200).

Updated calculations above.

 

[DJ TJ]

Maybe you could better explain your reasoning as to why you wouldn't have bought a tow vehicle that could safely tow at least the GVWR of the trailer. You have severely reduced your trailer payload by 1350lbs (which is quite significant imo) with the tow vehicle pictured and are not able to use the trailer to it's available capacity.

When you started this journey did you not do so due to the need to have increased capacity for not only employees but to have the ability to haul more gear for larger shows?

Add in the weight of every employee in addition to yourself who will be riding in the tow vehicle and you have reduced your towing capacity even further.
Imo, it appears you have in a sense handcuffed yourself with the setup as described.

 

[ittigger]

Just a guess, but I think he had the truck waaaaaaaaaaay before he had any plans of towing a trailer.

I'll also add that if you don't have a Weight Distribution hitch, you really need one for anything 5,000 lbs or more and at that weight, I think you will see some serious sag.

 

[DJStevieRay]

The truck I already owned. It only has 30k miles on it, so my wife wouldn't let me trade it yet. I can upgrade the truck, I didn't want to buy to small of a trailer and then have to upgrade both the truck and trailer down the road. The trailer will have about 2000lbs in it for our larger shows. Which will allow me to still have 3 very heavy staff members with me.

 

[ittigger]

I can upgrade the truck

Be careful here .. if you mean modify the existing truck, this is a fallacy. Without modifying structural components, you will not change the GVWR/GCWR. Any aftermarket items you see are 'helper' items, they don't change or modify the MFR ratings.