Finally found out why the sub wouldn't work.

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MIXMASTERMACHOM

DJ Extraordinaire
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Oct 16, 2011
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I don't understand why this happened but here we go. Did an event in Paterson on September 23rd. Got both 801p subs upstairs and one sub wouldn't work for some reason.

Just found out today the speaker in the sub is blown. Got to replace the woofer. So not a good day. My friend found a woofer that will work for $290. I'll get it done but don't know when.

Talking about it what can get done is use the woofers from the Earthquakes. Decision time. Would you use the Earthquake woofers in those Yorkville subs?
 
How and when did the speaker blow? It should still make a distorted sound with a blown speaker so something sounds fishy. Who tested it and concluded that it's blown? Probably should replace it with the same speaker or get it reconed.
 
Here you go bro!!!! I deal with these people all the time! And then I take the old one and get it fixed by a guy that re cones drivers, and has been doing my work for 20 years now! So I have a spare one, for breakage! Also when I sell my cabs, the buyer is elated to get a spare driver! It makes for a quick sale!


Buy the direct replacement! If you don't listen to this advice, then here is two tickets to failure! Have a nice trip!

When you get it fixed, make sure the guy uses the exact replacement kit! It is important to get the right weight of material! These cones are measured in grams! The motor driver is made to handle a certain cone, so make sure he buys a direct replacement kit!
 
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Here you go bro!!!! I deal with these people all the time! And then I take the old one and get it fixed by a guy that re cones drivers, and has been doing my work for 20 years now! So I have a spare one, for breakage! Also when I sell my cabs, the buyer is elated to get a spare driver! It makes for a quick sale!

Do these Yorkville LS800P/801P's eat woofers for breakfast? How did yours fail?

Mix, if yours failed because the "tinsel" broke or is burnt, this is also an option (if you know someone handy with a soldering iron) -
3500w Braided Speaker Tinsel Lead Wire .081'' Dia.

Even if it looks OK, measure it with an ohm meter.
 
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You shouldn't just switch it out with the earthquake. You want them matched. Can't just swap woofers out with out knowing if the parameters match up. Just get the yorkville reconed. Or even better idea, see if its under warranty. I think yorkville's might have like a no questions warranty on their items.


Reconed=New

Cost to recone might be $150-$200. Just make sure that they use a factory recone kit, and not the shitty aftermarket cheap kits.
 
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If you're blowing woofers (and no, a blown woofer does not make any noise and the cone won't move) then you're doing something wrong.

Woofers don't typically fail suddenly the way a tweeter does. What happens is you pound the crap out of them all night and they sound wonderful. However, all the excess power you fed them is dissipated as HEAT and that melts the glue binding the voice coil. When you quit and go home the voice coil coils down and resets in a deformed shape, or bound to the magnet pole. Next gig out - it won't work.

You can prevent this by fusing your divers. If you push them beyond their ratings the fuse will fail. Sure, you lose sound until you attenuate (off) that channel and replace the fuse, but a $0.10 fuse is better than a re-coning or new driver.
 
I'd love to know how you blew it. I've pounded them before with no issue. Sounds like more than overdriving
 
I'd love to know how you blew it. I've pounded them before with no issue. Sounds like more than overdriving

Don't forget, he knows exactly how to use the quality equipment that he has. Just ask him about the little knob settings on the back of the 801's. It must be a factory defect, Macho would never overdrive his gear. Remember how he always makes the statements about people cranking their stuff up too much. Pot meet kettle. Mix you do know what those little red lights on your controller are for, don't you?
 
Don't forget, he knows exactly how to use the quality equipment that he has. Just ask him about the little knob settings on the back of the 801's. It must be a factory defect, Macho would never overdrive his gear. Remember how he always makes the statements about people cranking their stuff up too much. Pot meet kettle. Mix you do know what those little red lights on your controller are for, don't you?

All I can say is if he over drove them at the gigs he does there are a few deaf people in NJ. If I recall there was about 30 people at his second last gig in an average size room
 
Clipping the speaker or dropping the speaker . One or the other had to happen!
 
can you further define "blown driver"? Is it siezed up (as pro suggests, voice coil melted)? To heat up a woofer like that you are either a/significantly overpowering the driver or b/sending a clipped signal. My best guess would be b. A refresher on gain settings seems in order. Look, I love bass as much as the next guy, we carry 24 18's in our system. We dust gymnasiums and field houses, dislodge stuck birdies and volleyballs, and help identify any loose light cans in suspended ceilings. In the past 20+ years we have blown exactly ZERO subs. We have had failures, typically due to age. They eventually sag due to age and the voice coils rub lol. A good recone (from a factory authorized center) will get you a good as new driver at a fraction of a new one and you know it's intended to perform in the box you have. Putting in another brand is likely to cause issues on several levels, up to and including early failure of the replacement driver. And again, re-evaluate your gain structure!!
 
They eventually sag due to age and the voice coils rub lol.
This is a problem with large drivers (with heavy cones), but can be minimized by rotating the driver, or alternately, sometimes simply storing the cabinets upside down.

Putting in another brand is likely to cause issues on several levels, up to and including early failure of the replacement driver.
There have been at least two different drivers used in these cabinets already by Yorkville themselves - RCF and B&C. Judicious use of more can be done, if you know what you're doing. In another thread, I cautioned the OP that swapping drivers for increased performance was N/G. That's not the case here, it would be for increased reliability (i.e. beginning of this thread). Seems the "tinsel" on this particular B&C driver has a propensity to vaporize. I await Mix's keen observation as to how the original driver failed.

However, even given all that, this is the real kicker (directly from Yorkville's site) -
7. Protection
The LS801P has circuitry to prevent clipping,
over current and over excursion. At high
levels the limiter will limit the gain of the
LS801P and hence if the user attempts to set
the subwoofer level control at a high level,
the resulting setting will be incorrect. The
level control should be set while operating
at low levels (under 10 watts). If the level
control is set too high due to setting it at high
operating levels the input circuit will clip and
the dynamics of the bass will be lost. The Red
Clip indicator will signify when this occurs.
This can happen without audible distortion
since the filters will filter out the distortion
.

No one should be able to butcher this thing!:laugh:
 
This is a problem with large drivers (with heavy cones), but can be minimized by rotating the driver, or alternately, sometimes simply storing the cabinets upside down.


There have been at least two different drivers used in these cabinets already by Yorkville themselves - RCF and B&C. Judicious use of more can be done, if you know what you're doing. In another thread, I cautioned the OP that swapping drivers for increased performance was N/G. That's not the case here, it would be for increased reliability (i.e. beginning of this thread). Seems the "tinsel" on this particular B&C driver has a propensity to vaporize. I await Mix's keen observation as to how the original driver failed.

However, even given all that, this is the real kicker (directly from Yorkville's site) -
7. Protection
The LS801P has circuitry to prevent clipping,
over current and over excursion. At high
levels the limiter will limit the gain of the
LS801P and hence if the user attempts to set
the subwoofer level control at a high level,
the resulting setting will be incorrect. The
level control should be set while operating
at low levels (under 10 watts). If the level
control is set too high due to setting it at high
operating levels the input circuit will clip and
the dynamics of the bass will be lost. The Red
Clip indicator will signify when this occurs.
This can happen without audible distortion
since the filters will filter out the distortion
.

No one should be able to butcher this thing!:laugh:

yeah we joke about rotating our drivers (and actually do spin them occasionally). But truth is, if they are getting that loose anyway they are do for a recone and we just send em off. Reconing a driver or two every 10 years isn't so bad.

Oh yes, you could certainly improve performance by replacing the driver but the owner would have to know how to read parameters. The average Mix shouldn't just throw in another driver because it fits the hole ;-)

interesting specs...makes me more curious as to the failure. hmmm....maybe Mix will come back sometime...
 
Guys please remember mix has next to no technical know how on how to use his DJ gear, he always seems to struggle with the simplest issues

But he can read.....