DBX GoRack - SUPER DEAL!

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So I'm considering purchasing the DBX DriveRack, but curious about how/where to plug it into my setup. I run out of my mixer into my Peavey IPR3000 amp. It powers my pair of Peavey 118 subs. From my pass thru on the amp, I go out to my powered EV EKX 15P's. At what point in the line would I add it? Is it beneficial, if so where? TIA.
After mixer, before 1st amp for most users, in line with the microphones if the feedback reduction is most important. It's an equalizer, feedback reducer, and compressor. Also has the ability to synthesize sub frequencies.
 
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So at that price and the cost of shipping, time to box/label/ship..it's about worthless then? LOL

I like mine with my 12" ev subs - brings them alive - the compressor and subsonic in particular.

Didn't see much benefit with my 18" subs on a small test (the etc 18sp). I'll be running them full tilt friday for my daughter's b'day party so it will be the first time I can really try it out on them..don't expect much benefit but i'll report back.

If anyone wants mine, they can have it for $10 shipped.

Just not practical for me.
 
So at that price and the cost of shipping, time to box/label/ship..it's about worthless then? LOL

I like mine with my 12" ev subs - brings them alive - the compressor and subsonic in particular.

Didn't see much benefit with my 18" subs on a small test (the etc 18sp). I'll be running them full tilt friday for my daughter's b'day party so it will be the first time I can really try it out on them..don't expect much benefit but i'll report back.
I noticed a good difference on both tops and subs.
 
Good things come to those that wait I guess! After a major scrap with UPS and a complaint to the folks who sold/shipped the GoRack to me, it miraculously arrived at my front door today from UPS with no fees attached anymore (and no explanation - guess they just gave up on me). Here is what happened, the seller listed the value of the item as $200 US on their shipping form which of course UPS uses to calculate their ridiculous brokerage fees. I tried to explain to their customer service people (all different people of course) multiple times that I only paid $30 for it and that I simply was not going to pay more than I paid for the item in ransom (brokerage fees) based on a bogus valuation (see my earlier posts in this thread on this issue). They kept trying to contact me (various departments who apparently never talk to each other) and I kept telling them to pound sand you know where - send it back! I also contacted the seller and asked them why they would value the item at a cost considerably more than what I paid for it knowing full well that it was being shipped internationally and that courier companies use the shipped value of the item to calculate their brokerage fee based on a horrendous percentages. Of course now I know they simply don't have a clue regarding anything that is more than 3 feet beyond their noses...
For all you Canucks out there, always try to get the companies you buy from in the US to ship via USPS simply because they hand it off to Canada post at the border with no brokerage fees attached at all. If it even touches a couriers hands, then BAM, you get billed retarded brokerage fees every time! I never expected to see the item again to be truthful and chalked my $30 plus shipping up as a total loss. Now it has arrived and I am happier than a pig in feces :cheers:

I use mine at every gig and love it! (a lot of gigs lately which is why I have been absent for quite awhile)
:djparty:
 
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Hey folks - ProAudioStar now has them for $25.00 IF you order it through their mobile app.
Heck, I just may buy another one.
 
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Bought 3 of these worse product IMO for sound systems one went bad on me destroying a RCF speaker

One malfunction

The last one I didn't bother opening sending back pronto


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bought 3 of these worse product IMO for sound systems one went bad on me destroying a RCF speaker

One malfunction

The last one I didn't bother opening sending back pronto


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sad to hear - I am really liking both of mine. Have been using one for about a year now with nary a glitch which prompted me to get a second one for the other side of my standard system (replacing a Behringer DEQ2496). Very very curious about the signs and symptoms that would cause it to blow a speaker like that? Were you running at extremely high levels at the limits of the speaker when you got some unexpected boost or did it just kind of melt down sending all kinds of distortion to the driver? What effect caused it to blow (i.e. sudden engagement of Sub-synth, EQ, Mic Feedback at high listening levels etc)? It may be helpful to others that still use them to know what was going on to cause a major failure like that and prevent something similar from happening to them if it can be attributed to the unit...
In the military we were big on FMEA (Failure Modes and Effects Analysis) Process to aid us in identifying in-service equipment problems such as genuine design flaws, equipment malfunctions due to Quality Control in manufacturing etc. and of course procedural errors or RTFM/PEBCAK issues (aka Read The F'N Manual/Problem Exists between Chair and Keyboard = human error). In complex systems it is always easy to blame the new gear without first understanding holistically what was going on at the time. Sometimes (not all of course), it can be something totally unrelated that caused the failure in the first place and chance just happened to marry the two incidents (i.e the speaker was already on the precipice of failure after many years of faithful service). Case in point I once blew a second hand 15 inch sub driver I had used for several louder gigs before I started using a new Denon Mixer I aquired. For the longest time I thought it was the mixer that was the cause and was skitterish to use it at all. At the end of the day, it was a duff woofer which after replacing gave me several years of good use with that same mixer once I built up a comfort level to using it more. It just so happened that it chose that particular day I added the mixer to the equation to pack it in. I wasn't even pushing it to the limits. I now believe (but can't prove) that it may have been one or two gigs before that was the killer coups de gras that tipped the driver over the edge to failure and was never the fault of the mixer...
Cheers
TMF
 
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My has been working well also I use it as a mini mixer in my ceremony system, I don't think I would use for my main processing, thats when you need to step up and buy a drive rack pro or something similar
 
Bought 3 of these worse product IMO for sound systems one went bad on me destroying a RCF speaker

One malfunction

The last one I didn't bother opening sending back pronto


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As @Navydiver mentioned, saying it destroyed a speaker is a very general statement.
What exactly did it destroy?

In all honesty, is there is a possibility that you incorrectly used the subharmonic or compression features of the unit that may have caused undue stress on the speaker?
 
Sad to hear - I am really liking both of mine. Have been using one for about a year now with nary a glitch which prompted me to get a second one for the other side of my standard system (replacing a Behringer DEQ2496). Very very curious about the signs and symptoms that would cause it to blow a speaker like that? Were you running at extremely high levels at the limits of the speaker when you got some unexpected boost or did it just kind of melt down sending all kinds of distortion to the driver? What effect caused it to blow (i.e. sudden engagement of Sub-synth, EQ, Mic Feedback at high listening levels etc)? It may be helpful to others that still use them to know what was going on to cause a major failure like that and prevent something similar from happening to them if it can be attributed to the unit...
In the military we were big on FMEA (Failure Modes and Effects Analysis) Process to aid us in identifying in-service equipment problems such as genuine design flaws, equipment malfunctions due to Quality Control in manufacturing etc. and of course procedural errors or RTFM/PEBCAK issues (aka Read The F'N Manual/Problem Exists between Chair and Keyboard = human error). In complex systems it is always easy to blame the new gear without first understanding holistically what was going on at the time. Sometimes (not all of course), it can be something totally unrelated that caused the failure in the first place and chance just happened to marry the two incidents (i.e the speaker was already on the precipice of failure after many years of faithful service). Case in point I once blew a second hand 15 inch sub driver I had used for several louder gigs before I started using a new Denon Mixer I aquired. For the longest time I thought it was the mixer that was the cause and was skitterish to use it at all. At the end of the day, it was a duff woofer which after replacing gave me several years of good use with that same mixer once I built up a comfort level to using it more. It just so happened that it chose that particular day I added the mixer to the equation to pack it in. I wasn't even pushing it to the limits. I now believe (but can't prove) that it may have been one or two gigs before that was the killer coups de gras that tipped the driver over the edge to failure and was never the fault of the mixer...
Cheers
TMF

I ran it with the 2 setting
EQ was on 4
Sub Synth I tested it in different settings with bass boost off on the actual sub
To me it sounded best with Sub Synth Off and sub boost on the sub
No compression
Anti feedback on

I ran all 4 daisy chained 2 on each channel
Unity Gain

On DBX Barely peaking
It was loud sounded beautiful
All of a sudden one channel started popping and constant red on the main I thought a blew a speaker and after going through the speakers the main one from a chain amp went bad speaker itself was not blown

A few days later I had a gig so I had to figure out which one was the bad speaker they all looked perfect so I took all 4 to the gig and the speaker was able to receive signal and actually play but when I daisy chained popping would come back and red out again

Contacted RCF and I was sol
Don't get me wrong the speaker sounds amazing but after this fail I can't afford trial and error at gigs warranty issues I can almost deal with after all I use these things every weekend but fails NO WAY!

I'm seriously thinking of just thinking of sticking to old faithful QSC k12s


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I ran it with the 2 setting
EQ was on 4
Sub Synth I tested it in different settings with bass boost off on the actual sub
To me it sounded best with Sub Synth Off and sub boost on the sub
No compression
Anti feedback on

I ran all 4 daisy chained 2 on each channel
Unity Gain

On DBX Barely peaking
It was loud sounded beautiful
All of a sudden one channel started popping and constant red on the main I thought a blew a speaker and after going through the speakers the main one from a chain amp went bad speaker itself was not blown

A few days later I had a gig so I had to figure out which one was the bad speaker they all looked perfect so I took all 4 to the gig and the speaker was able to receive signal and actually play but when I daisy chained popping would come back and red out again

Contacted RCF and I was sol
Don't get me wrong the speaker sounds amazing but after this fail I can't afford trial and error at gigs warranty issues I can almost deal with after all I use these things every weekend but fails NO WAY!

I'm seriously thinking of just thinking of sticking to old faithful QSC k12s


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Just curious - after your description I am wondering why it is you think it was the GoRack that was at fault? Were you actually operating it (changing settings on it) at the exact time time the melt-down occurred? without knowing your exact setup configuration front to back, it could have been any number of problems within the signal chain that could have caused the problem including bad cables shorting out somewhere in between perhaps? Maybe it was something amiss in the speaker circuits for pass-through when daisy-chaining? Saying the system worked good 50 times before the addition is not always the correct assumption since everyone here likely knows that things fail inexplicably after a 51st time whether you make new changes or not. It is just the way of electronics used in a rugged mobile DJ environment. As I think I mentioned it is often easiest to blame the newest piece of gear added to the "source to transducer" chain but it may have just been your speakers time to say "I'm done". From what I read here I am not yet convinced I need to consider leaving my GoRack's at home given my successes with them. If they do fail I will be the first to admit it and let everyone here know...

Here is a typical (very simple) setup configuration drawing I use to give my son when he helps me setup the primary side:

DJ_System_Config_Denon_MC6000_MK2_with_Subs.jpg


Here is how we hook up the secondary side in the event we have a primary side failure (I normally carry a backup speaker in the event one fizzles). Note that I make use of both inputs on the two channel mixer at the back of my tops in the event that either side fails. That way I can hot swap between primary and secondary sides and be absolutely sure it is not the speakers acting up with a combination of both configurations as my standard setup methodology:

DJ_System_Config_Mackie_Pro_FX12_side.jpg


In general my strategy is always to avoid going anywhere near clipping. As soon as I hear anything close to something bad going on I port over to the secondary side immediately and carry on until i can go back to primary (if at all). Seems to work so far as I have had to do this on a few occasions that has saved the day...
 
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Well in the 28 years I have been a dj I have never blown a speaker or amp thank God!

I am very picky in sound and gear when I buy a speaker I expect it to run way more than 50+ times

My QSC system is currently 3.5 years old and over 200 gigs sound like new

I'm from the school that when something fails I rather not deal with the bs in trying to make it work I rather buy what works and is reliable etc


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Well in the 28 years I have been a dj I have never blown a speaker or amp thank God!

I am very picky in sound and gear when I buy a speaker I expect it to run way more than 50+ times

My QSC system is currently 3.5 years old and over 200 gigs sound like new

I'm from the school that when something fails I rather not deal with the bs in trying to make it work I rather buy what works and is reliable etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I couldn't agree more which is why I settled on EVs (everyone has their preference) - Unfortunately, even the odd Rolls Royce breaks down. Tis the law of entropy in the physical world. I haven't been so lucky with blown speakers but can safely say it has been less than a handful in number despite a few phases of hard experimentation thrown in the mix. My most expensive pair was a set of Quad ESL-63 Elecrostats (High End Home Speakers in our Sound Room at the PX audio shop I worked in overseas) with a Carver M1.5t - arced the hell out of them when I was young and foolish. The good thing is Quad UK made good on fixing them since we sold boatloads for them ( we left out the part about using a massive high powered solid state amp - But Bob Carver did say the t mod sounded exactly the same as a Mark Levinson ML-2 tube amp Doh!). A couple of my first gigs circa 1977 :cheers:

image.jpg


n640803130_217529_4148.jpg
 
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